The Three R’s of St John.  Relaxation- Recreation- Reconnection Island Vacation 2015

Writing this on March 13 – Vacation is about leaving all of your responsibilities, work and obligations behind- doing what you love or just chilling out without a care in the world.   There is a saying- “no good vacation goes un punished” and the late entry of this last installment of our STJ vacation is a testament to our hectic lives full of work, family and craziness.   But, our last three days were truly about the Three R’S of STJ and oh how I wish I could still be there!

After discovering the location of the Bordeaux Mountain trailhead on Day 8 – hubby and big brother decided to take that hike from up above 1100 ft elevation, down to sea level.  The hike ends at Little Lameshure, so the rest of us were going to pack up the jeep and head down to meet them and spend the day at the beach.  Dropped the guys off at the trailhead and got to have my first experience driving on the left- not sure if it counts since there were no other cars on the road.  Got back to the villa and the three of us gathered up the snorkel gear, towels, beach chairs, made lunch and jumped in the jeep in record time!   Little brother drove and it took us just about the same amount of time to get down to the road to where we said we would meet as it did for the guys to descend the mountain- morning  traffic and a couple of herds of goats and we were there!

The guys had made the hike in about 45 minutes so they had been wandering around for a bit.   They had seen an islander in the bay singing “In the Jungle” when they finished the hike.   There were not many people around.  Interestingly enough a post on Tripadvisor has surfaced after we returned home with people saying that they were harassed by this guy.  Check it out here and be the judge- http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g147409-i432-k8118903-Harassment_at_Little_Lameshur_Beach-St_John_U_S_Virgin_Islands.html. Big brother and Hubby did not experience this at all, so I’m sure that the truth lies somewhere in the middle.

We set up under some shady trees and spent most of the rest of the day snorkeling, brothers did a little more hiking and just watching the world pass by.   There was one couple that showed up and they were happy to be away from what turned out to be the first of many snow storms Boston was experiencing.   They were friendly, but the guy turned out to be kind of a tool- saw him snorkel and pull a lobster out of its home in the rocks and then pull an anemone out and wave it around to show his wife, after he came out of the water he decided it would be a good idea to fly fish from shore into a bay full of snorkelers.   One local guy that was getting ready to paddle board asked him to stop or move to a safer location and Boston Boy just looked at him and his wife told the local guy to have a nice day.

We had planned to head to Cruz Bay to souvenir shop, but learned about a fire that had happened at Mongoose Junction.  The island had all of its fire departments report, so we decided that we did not need to add to the crowd and decided to head home.  After a stop at Miss Lucy’s where we split 2 grouper rueben sandwiches between the 5 of us and  wishing we had each ordered one, we headed to the grocery store.  We heard more about the fire there and it had taken out several businesses.  The reaction of the islanders reminded me of how a small town comes together I these situations.

We headed home for some filets and roasted sweet potatoes on the grill, a night of packing and relaxing and headed out on the car ferry the next morning.   We stayed at the Best Western Carib next to the airport and finished our trip up with dinner at Oceana in Frenchtown.  St John is about Relaxation in a pool- jacuzzi- or on the beach. Recreation like people watching, – hiking, snorkeling ,diving, swimming and boating.  Reconnection with human beings is the best reason to visit.  the kindness on this island is like no place else.  People are welcoming, helpful and accepting.  Go there to reconnect with nature- family – your partner or spouse but most of all with yourself. 

One of the best parts about an island vacation is the conscious decision to relax – sometimes it is on a beach, other times it is with a cocktail.  If you are staying in a beautiful location, a villa, a hotel or even a campground on St. John there are ample opportunities to be active, but also times when just “chilling” is the best way to truly enjoy the surroundings and your vacation.

We started this day with a wonderful breakfast of steak and eggs.  We have had some very good meals while on island – usually using our own kitchen in Eminence on High, the villa we rented from  https://seatopeakvillas.com/EminenceOnHigh/.  After breakfast we talked about the plan of the day and several options came up – but something about the cool pool, sunlit patio and some chilled island cocktails was calling, ” Vagablond….stay home!”  and so that is exactly what hubby and I did.

Floating in the pool
Floating in the pool

View of Coral Bay from patio

We lounged by the pool, we called hubby’s mom and dad in Florida to congratulate them on 68 years of marriage    and said a little prayer that we would be given that same time to be together. We celebrated our life, our family and the happiness we feel when we are able to just “be” together.
Later that afternoon we took a short drive through the roads near the villa. We found the trailhead for the Bordeaux Mountain Trail and decided that trail which starts 1150ft above sea level – and leads down to Little Lamshur may be a trek for another day.
That evening it was dinner with family at the villa – we had slow roasted a pork loin with pineapple mango salsa. It was at this meal we hooked little brother on sweet potatoes cut up and roasted on the barbeque grill. He found out that a food he thought he hated is actually pretty good. Only a couple days left and we are already sad to be leaving.

Tim from St. JohnA few islands ago, Hubby asked Vagablond to learn to scuba.  I agreed to try and I did go to the class, don the gear and get in the water ready to go.  Then I got about 6 feet under and kinda freaked out.  I told hubby to go ahead and I stayed back to snorkel the reef with my tushy popped up through the water and easy access to the air above me.

Since diving is not something we could do together and we both love to snorkel, it was one of the main activity drawing us to St. John as there are so many great sites that can easily be reached from the beach.  We love adventure and finding the off the beaten path sites was one goal we had.  We did a bit of research on the internet, studied the map of St. John and read about where there may be some cool things to see.  We knew that some spots were not going to be reached by a trail or beach so we would need to rent a dinghy or find a boat to take us.  We found a tour that takes just 6 people with a captain that is a local on St. John.  After a quick email and phone call we reserved spot for this all day snorkel trip around St. John Island.

We arrived at the dock about 8:30am, met our captain and the other members of our small 6 person party and we headed off to our first stop, Eagles Shoal.   It is quite a distance from the island by boat, and frankly I was a bit skeptical and nervous when we arrived.  Our captain gave us instructions on which way to swim, and when hubby put on a safety vest I thought – “if he is going in I’m not letting him go alone!”.  Well it was totally worth the brief fear and trepidation.

When I swam the 20 yards toward the reef all I could see is black below me.   Then the reef appeared and it was so beautiful.  Full of tiny bait fish, caverns, caves and coral.  It is a place that made me want to learn to scuba dive and explore.  It was peaceful with just 4 of us in the water – we had about a 30 minute snorkel here, and as I climbed back in to the boat I told our captain – You will have a hard time topping that!  He said – “Just wait! – there is more”.

We started on the next leg of our exploration and rode past Salt Pond, Lamshur, and Little Lamshur beaches, then curved around the end of Rams Head where we spotted hikers  up on the top taking in what must be a gorgeous view.  We  sped past the Cruz Bay area and the bustling ferry docks and U.S. Customs stop.  We slowed down and found a nice calm spot at Lovango Cay.  It is a small island with a few luxury homes, we learned that there is a homeowners association that runs the marine services, and the island has its own small power grid.  What a beautiful place to call home if you can afford it.  We snorkeled here for about an hour, it was a very pretty, clear and clean reef.

We headed north and toward Mary Point from here, we passed the custom house that sits on the edge of the water and heard a story about how it was used in the past.   We headed over to Waterlemon Cay as one of the passengers remembered snorkeling there 20 years ago.  Upon arrival we saw a repeat of our Day 6– Boats hooked to every mooring, people on the beach, in the water and on the Cay.  We decided that it was a bit crowded and not really something that any of the 6 of us would want to do so we turned on the power and headed out of there and around the island to the east.  Looking for a spot to have lunch and spend about 2 hours snorkeling was the next goal, and so we headed past the many remote bays facing the BVI.

We stopped at Newfound Bay a shallow reef with a narrow entry channel.  We were glad that our captain had knowledge of the layout as I found out just how shallow it was a bit later.  We moored the boat and listened to an overview of the area.  There is grassy area where turtles feed, a coral reef that is hundreds of years old, and new reef that is coming to life in the midst of all of it all.  We could not wait to get in the water and head over to see all that this reef held.  As I swam away, hubby swam up next to me and touched my leg making me jump about 10 feet thinking it was a  sea creature.  I pulled my my head out of the water and told him don’t do that!  He said he just wanted to tell me about a big fish he had seen.  It was about 4 feet long!   I just smiled and said “ok honey” – and put my snorkel back in and swam away thinking – “Sure…..you saw a 4 foot fish”.   I headed to the reef and let my self get lost in the beauty.

Every foot I swam revealed more and more to see.   If I just stayed still and floated I would see the whole reef come to life below me.  It was during one of these floats that I noticed the reef coming closer and closer, I was floating into a very shallow place that was sort of like a “bowl” of coral. I am very careful about never touching the reef and I started to get a bit panicked as I as I had lost direction and could not figure out how to move away without touching anything. As I did this my upper thigh hit a piece of coral, scraping my skin and stinging. I took a breath and my snorkel filled with water and then I realized that I needed to calm down. I turned on my back to float, breathe and think. After I calmed down I called out to our boat captain and told him that I needed to know which way to swim. He had been watching me and when he pointed I followed his direction and was out of there. I swam in to the bay to take a few minutes and catch my breath and thought floating above some sea grass to spot turtles might be the best thing for me at that point.

After a few minutes the group was coming in for lunch so I swam toward the boat and saw hubby coming from the other side of the bay. He was moving pretty fast, so I just thought he was hungry. As I get closer his head pops up and says – look behind him. I pop my mask in the water and there was a huge 4 foot long fish following him! I turned and asked our captain what kind of fish is that? He laughed and said- “That’s Tim – the barracuda”. I looked again and decided to climb in to the boat and encourage hubby to do the same. At that same time the couple we met on the boat swam up and were able to get a picture of “Tim” which is at the top of this post.  Our captain explained that barracuda are very curious and he has only seen a barracuda hurt someone one time in the six years he has lived on island.  That was when a guy put his finger to the fishes lips and tried to have the fish make “raspberries”.  The guy lost his finger.  We had no trouble with “Tim” and hubby seemed to make a new friend.  It was a little nerve wrecking – but cool none the less.  We ate lunch, watched for Tim and then had another brief snorkel before moving on to our last stop of the day – Flanagan Island.

We started our day at a remote water destination and ended the day the same way.  We pulled into Flanagan and anchored the boat, the captain explained where some of the better underwater sights would be and off we went.  This was a special and awesome experience too – the coral was colorful, the fish were plentiful and there were some pieces of coral that almost looked like boulders of coral that had dropped from the sky, round, full and shaped like huge bowling balls.  Wishing we could stay and knowing that an entire day could be spent here without seeing everything we climbed back in to the boat after about an hour.   What an amazing day!  We returned to the dock feeling like we had accomplished our goal of snorkeling at sites we would have never been able to see off the beach or by hiking to the spot.

I truly believe that finding a “local” to show and tell is still the best way to see a new place.  The young man that runs this tour does it just one day a week.  He is kind, knowledgeable, patient and building great memories for his passengers.   Talk to the locals, ask good questions and most importantly make friends.

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