The Three R’s of St John.  Relaxation- Recreation- Reconnection Island Vacation 2015

Writing this on March 13 – Vacation is about leaving all of your responsibilities, work and obligations behind- doing what you love or just chilling out without a care in the world.   There is a saying- “no good vacation goes un punished” and the late entry of this last installment of our STJ vacation is a testament to our hectic lives full of work, family and craziness.   But, our last three days were truly about the Three R’S of STJ and oh how I wish I could still be there!

After discovering the location of the Bordeaux Mountain trailhead on Day 8 – hubby and big brother decided to take that hike from up above 1100 ft elevation, down to sea level.  The hike ends at Little Lameshure, so the rest of us were going to pack up the jeep and head down to meet them and spend the day at the beach.  Dropped the guys off at the trailhead and got to have my first experience driving on the left- not sure if it counts since there were no other cars on the road.  Got back to the villa and the three of us gathered up the snorkel gear, towels, beach chairs, made lunch and jumped in the jeep in record time!   Little brother drove and it took us just about the same amount of time to get down to the road to where we said we would meet as it did for the guys to descend the mountain- morning  traffic and a couple of herds of goats and we were there!

The guys had made the hike in about 45 minutes so they had been wandering around for a bit.   They had seen an islander in the bay singing “In the Jungle” when they finished the hike.   There were not many people around.  Interestingly enough a post on Tripadvisor has surfaced after we returned home with people saying that they were harassed by this guy.  Check it out here and be the judge- Big brother and Hubby did not experience this at all, so I’m sure that the truth lies somewhere in the middle.

We set up under some shady trees and spent most of the rest of the day snorkeling, brothers did a little more hiking and just watching the world pass by.   There was one couple that showed up and they were happy to be away from what turned out to be the first of many snow storms Boston was experiencing.   They were friendly, but the guy turned out to be kind of a tool- saw him snorkel and pull a lobster out of its home in the rocks and then pull an anemone out and wave it around to show his wife, after he came out of the water he decided it would be a good idea to fly fish from shore into a bay full of snorkelers.   One local guy that was getting ready to paddle board asked him to stop or move to a safer location and Boston Boy just looked at him and his wife told the local guy to have a nice day.

We had planned to head to Cruz Bay to souvenir shop, but learned about a fire that had happened at Mongoose Junction.  The island had all of its fire departments report, so we decided that we did not need to add to the crowd and decided to head home.  After a stop at Miss Lucy’s where we split 2 grouper rueben sandwiches between the 5 of us and  wishing we had each ordered one, we headed to the grocery store.  We heard more about the fire there and it had taken out several businesses.  The reaction of the islanders reminded me of how a small town comes together I these situations.

We headed home for some filets and roasted sweet potatoes on the grill, a night of packing and relaxing and headed out on the car ferry the next morning.   We stayed at the Best Western Carib next to the airport and finished our trip up with dinner at Oceana in Frenchtown.  St John is about Relaxation in a pool- jacuzzi- or on the beach. Recreation like people watching, – hiking, snorkeling ,diving, swimming and boating.  Reconnection with human beings is the best reason to visit.  the kindness on this island is like no place else.  People are welcoming, helpful and accepting.  Go there to reconnect with nature- family – your partner or spouse but most of all with yourself. 

Tim from St. JohnA few islands ago, Hubby asked Vagablond to learn to scuba.  I agreed to try and I did go to the class, don the gear and get in the water ready to go.  Then I got about 6 feet under and kinda freaked out.  I told hubby to go ahead and I stayed back to snorkel the reef with my tushy popped up through the water and easy access to the air above me.

Since diving is not something we could do together and we both love to snorkel, it was one of the main activity drawing us to St. John as there are so many great sites that can easily be reached from the beach.  We love adventure and finding the off the beaten path sites was one goal we had.  We did a bit of research on the internet, studied the map of St. John and read about where there may be some cool things to see.  We knew that some spots were not going to be reached by a trail or beach so we would need to rent a dinghy or find a boat to take us.  We found a tour that takes just 6 people with a captain that is a local on St. John.  After a quick email and phone call we reserved spot for this all day snorkel trip around St. John Island.

We arrived at the dock about 8:30am, met our captain and the other members of our small 6 person party and we headed off to our first stop, Eagles Shoal.   It is quite a distance from the island by boat, and frankly I was a bit skeptical and nervous when we arrived.  Our captain gave us instructions on which way to swim, and when hubby put on a safety vest I thought – “if he is going in I’m not letting him go alone!”.  Well it was totally worth the brief fear and trepidation.

When I swam the 20 yards toward the reef all I could see is black below me.   Then the reef appeared and it was so beautiful.  Full of tiny bait fish, caverns, caves and coral.  It is a place that made me want to learn to scuba dive and explore.  It was peaceful with just 4 of us in the water – we had about a 30 minute snorkel here, and as I climbed back in to the boat I told our captain – You will have a hard time topping that!  He said – “Just wait! – there is more”.

We started on the next leg of our exploration and rode past Salt Pond, Lamshur, and Little Lamshur beaches, then curved around the end of Rams Head where we spotted hikers  up on the top taking in what must be a gorgeous view.  We  sped past the Cruz Bay area and the bustling ferry docks and U.S. Customs stop.  We slowed down and found a nice calm spot at Lovango Cay.  It is a small island with a few luxury homes, we learned that there is a homeowners association that runs the marine services, and the island has its own small power grid.  What a beautiful place to call home if you can afford it.  We snorkeled here for about an hour, it was a very pretty, clear and clean reef.

We headed north and toward Mary Point from here, we passed the custom house that sits on the edge of the water and heard a story about how it was used in the past.   We headed over to Waterlemon Cay as one of the passengers remembered snorkeling there 20 years ago.  Upon arrival we saw a repeat of our Day 6– Boats hooked to every mooring, people on the beach, in the water and on the Cay.  We decided that it was a bit crowded and not really something that any of the 6 of us would want to do so we turned on the power and headed out of there and around the island to the east.  Looking for a spot to have lunch and spend about 2 hours snorkeling was the next goal, and so we headed past the many remote bays facing the BVI.

We stopped at Newfound Bay a shallow reef with a narrow entry channel.  We were glad that our captain had knowledge of the layout as I found out just how shallow it was a bit later.  We moored the boat and listened to an overview of the area.  There is grassy area where turtles feed, a coral reef that is hundreds of years old, and new reef that is coming to life in the midst of all of it all.  We could not wait to get in the water and head over to see all that this reef held.  As I swam away, hubby swam up next to me and touched my leg making me jump about 10 feet thinking it was a  sea creature.  I pulled my my head out of the water and told him don’t do that!  He said he just wanted to tell me about a big fish he had seen.  It was about 4 feet long!   I just smiled and said “ok honey” – and put my snorkel back in and swam away thinking – “Sure… saw a 4 foot fish”.   I headed to the reef and let my self get lost in the beauty.

Every foot I swam revealed more and more to see.   If I just stayed still and floated I would see the whole reef come to life below me.  It was during one of these floats that I noticed the reef coming closer and closer, I was floating into a very shallow place that was sort of like a “bowl” of coral. I am very careful about never touching the reef and I started to get a bit panicked as I as I had lost direction and could not figure out how to move away without touching anything. As I did this my upper thigh hit a piece of coral, scraping my skin and stinging. I took a breath and my snorkel filled with water and then I realized that I needed to calm down. I turned on my back to float, breathe and think. After I calmed down I called out to our boat captain and told him that I needed to know which way to swim. He had been watching me and when he pointed I followed his direction and was out of there. I swam in to the bay to take a few minutes and catch my breath and thought floating above some sea grass to spot turtles might be the best thing for me at that point.

After a few minutes the group was coming in for lunch so I swam toward the boat and saw hubby coming from the other side of the bay. He was moving pretty fast, so I just thought he was hungry. As I get closer his head pops up and says – look behind him. I pop my mask in the water and there was a huge 4 foot long fish following him! I turned and asked our captain what kind of fish is that? He laughed and said- “That’s Tim – the barracuda”. I looked again and decided to climb in to the boat and encourage hubby to do the same. At that same time the couple we met on the boat swam up and were able to get a picture of “Tim” which is at the top of this post.  Our captain explained that barracuda are very curious and he has only seen a barracuda hurt someone one time in the six years he has lived on island.  That was when a guy put his finger to the fishes lips and tried to have the fish make “raspberries”.  The guy lost his finger.  We had no trouble with “Tim” and hubby seemed to make a new friend.  It was a little nerve wrecking – but cool none the less.  We ate lunch, watched for Tim and then had another brief snorkel before moving on to our last stop of the day – Flanagan Island.

We started our day at a remote water destination and ended the day the same way.  We pulled into Flanagan and anchored the boat, the captain explained where some of the better underwater sights would be and off we went.  This was a special and awesome experience too – the coral was colorful, the fish were plentiful and there were some pieces of coral that almost looked like boulders of coral that had dropped from the sky, round, full and shaped like huge bowling balls.  Wishing we could stay and knowing that an entire day could be spent here without seeing everything we climbed back in to the boat after about an hour.   What an amazing day!  We returned to the dock feeling like we had accomplished our goal of snorkeling at sites we would have never been able to see off the beach or by hiking to the spot.

I truly believe that finding a “local” to show and tell is still the best way to see a new place.  The young man that runs this tour does it just one day a week.  He is kind, knowledgeable, patient and building great memories for his passengers.   Talk to the locals, ask good questions and most importantly make friends.

Island Vacation Day 6- People! WaterLemon Cay is NOT a theme park!

Our day started with a beautiful sunrise, pink, yellow and white with the sun bright in our eyes through the villa bedroom window. We talked over breakfast about where we wanted to go. We talked about how on our first visit to St John 6 years ago we had hiked the Leinster trail.
It is a flat 0.8-mile trail that follows the shoreline of Leinster Bay just outside of Annaberg plantation. It leads right past Water Lemon Cay and we had not snorkeled there on our first visit. We remembered our prior hike as a quiet trek we did after visiting a vacant Annaberg. We walked over a wide and easy trail with one boat moored in the bay to visit a peaceful, empty and serene beach six years ago.
So we all agreed a nice peaceful hike and then a refreshing snorkel was a great activity for the day. We packed up our snorkel gear, a cooler to leave in the car with drinks and snacks and grabbed some towels. We needed ice so we volunteered to go pick it up in Coral Bay and meet the rest of our group after.
In Coral Bay we picked up the ice, put it in the cooler and decided to take a “road less traveled” back up Rt 20 instead of taking Rt10. The road goes past the Love City Mini Mart and is paved, until it is is no longer paved. We had a 4 wheeling fun trip up and when we were almost to the end we saw a woman on the road with a very large dog and a pet goat. I’m not sure who was more surprised, us or her, as I am fairly confident that she does not see many cars on this road. The road came out right next to the Columbo Smoothie stand- if you drive by there, it is very difficult to spot where the road comes out, but we popped up and over and right on to the continuation of Rt 20 and over to the parking lot at Annaberg.
Well let me tell you the shock upon arrival! My how things have changed………a lot! The parking lot was totally full with cars double parked and the road lined on both sides with cars. This was very different from any other visit we had made to Annaberg. We parked on the roadside and met up with my 2 brothers and then started our hike.
As we walked we met several groups and couples, I was just in disbelief of the number of people. I commented to one woman as we passed about the crowd saying I thought it was quite unusual. She and her husband were just coming back and said, “yeah it’s like Disney World of St John out there- too crowded to even get a good snorkel.” As we continued we understood what she was saying. The beach was full, every mooring, and I think there were at least a dozen was occupied by a boat and there were tourists clothing, bags, shoes and towels hanging from branches everywhere along the shore. There were people, kayaks and dinghies on the shore of WaterLemon Cay. She was not kidding! We set down our towels, popped on our snorkel gear and dropped in the water to at least try to see some fish. After having 3 people swim into us and fighting a fairly strong current we decided that this is not really the “peaceful” snorkeling experience we are accustom to and after about 30 minutes we decided to dry off and hike back. We watched a large group of 10 file past us, they had beach chairs, coolers, beach toys, noodles, and bags of food and towels. I’m not sure where they thought that hey we’re going to set up, but I don’t think that they realized that this area is not a sandy and open beach. It is a trail, with large boulders, a rocky beach and path that is narrow and currently well traveled by many. By the look on some faces of this group, they were a bit annoyed at whomever had the idea to take that hike.
Back at the parking lot we had a snack and talked about how unusual it was to see so many people. We all needed some peace and quiet so we headed back to the house. Our dinner that night was a beautiful prime rib we had brought from home in our checked cooler. The meal was amazing, and we hit the pillow early as we had a big day of snorkeling on our “lap of St John” planned the next day with an early start.

Island Vacation Day 5 – Island Exploration and Brown Bay Trail

Driving to remote areas has never bothered us, in fact we love the challenge and adventure around discovering what might be hidden in the geography of St John USVI around us. This morning was no exception.  We decided to take a ride south and east of our villa to see the areas were were overlooking each morning.  The view was stunning from up above,  the vegetation looked dense and the roads were narrow lines that were barely visible from out 1150 foot perch on Bordeaux Mountain.   We headed out after surveying a couple maps and pointing our finger saying “let’s go there!”
We wanted to see if we could reach the far East end of the island.  We dropped down from Bordeaux Mountain into the village of Coral Bay.  After passing Skinny Legs bar and Grill, the road follows the water and there are many bays with a different environment at each one.  Some were rocky, some sandy, one was mangrove, and as we traveled the road started to climb bringing gorgeous views of both USVI waterways and British Virgin Islands.   We passed through Hansen Bay and saw the small food stand called “Vies”- apparently the food is wonderful, but she was closed on Monday, so we could not try the western Indian specialties served here.  A few day later we ran into travelers that said they paid the $5 to get on the beach and we’re glad they did, as it is a gorgeous clean and quiet beach.
The road lead us to the art studio of Sloop Jones.  You must be a little bold when visiting as it looks like you might be walking in to someone’s home when you pull up to the closed gate.  The sign tells you that the gate is closed to keep the goats out, take our word for it- people are welcome!  The artist, Sloop Jones has been creating “wearable art” for over 25 years, I had read a bit about him before visiting and was impressed with the beautiful articles of clothing in his shop.  The woman that helped us was very informative about the way he creates the paint from pigments, mixing colors by hand and using a custom method that allows the clothing to hold the color after many washings.   She told us that they have customers that have purchased items over 20 years ago and they are still wearing these pieces.   Prices are not cheap, but to have a one of a kind piece of signed Sloop Jones wearable art seemed like a good buy to me, so I purchased a top for me and a dress for the daughter.  She was also a great source of information about snorkel spots and recommended we try Haulover bay that day because seas were unusually calm and we would be able to do both south and north with calm seas.

Sloop Jones Shop Sloop Art


After leaving, we knew the road to the east had ended so we headed back from where we came and toward an upscale housing development we had spotted toward the north of where we were.  We drove the curvy road that climbed up past several sites that were for sale as well as past a few homes that were simply spectacular.  This road, though still paved, started becoming narrow with vegetation overcoming the road on either side of the jeep. As we passed various bushes we noticed several with large burrs and thorny spikes and joked about keeping our arm off of the window ledge!  As we made a curvy turn we were surprised by 2 people taking pictures of the beautiful bay below.  They waved and said with a smile-  “you know the road ends?”  We said yes, and we would be looking for a spot to turn and go back down- another 20 yards and we reach the end of the road for the second time that day.

We contemplated the Haulaway North snorkel, but we were really interested in the Brown Bay hike so we opted to head over to the trailhead for Brown Bay that starts next to the firing range just about a mile east of the Moravian Church in Coral Bay.   We started up the trail knowing that there would be steep inclines.  Because I have a past ankle injury that left a plate and screws in my ankle, hubby was concerned that it would not be a good idea to continue after the first ridge, but my stubborn Dutch girl took over and something inside me would not let me quit.   The hike to the beach took us about an hour.  I won’t lie- this was a loose rocky, gully of a trail that had both of us looking down most of the time to decide where we would place our next step.  But once we got to the beach we were able to hop in the water, cool off and take in the surrounding area.  There were 2 boats moored in the bay, and an empty dinghy on shore.   We looked around the very shallow bay for a bit, spotting several conch in the sea grass under the water as well as small fish.   A couple that owned the dinghy appeared from the trail and we had a brief chat, learning that they lived on their sailboat and would come over the trails a few times a week in order to get some physical activity, walking one of the trails.  They looked to be in their 60’s and were strong and lean.   Must be something to this life!
We decided against a snorkel here as we had just one bottle of water left and knew the hike back would require stamina, so we headed back, determined to beat our one hour time by at least 10 min.  It took 50 minutes and I have to say I had a moment of feeling pretty proud of hubby and me, it was tough but we did it!  We ate our fruit and wraps from the cooler in the car, rehydrated with some water and headed to our reward a stop at Maho beach to take a dip and a rest and then head back to the house for a great
dinner with family, sharing stories of our separate adventures of the day.

Island vacation 2015

January is a great time to escape the cold Midwestern winter and find some Caribbean happiness and sun. The Puerto Rico and the United States Virgin Islands (USVI ) are a perfect tropical destination. It is easily reachable from Midwestern cities, most mornings you can wake early, board a plane and be walking on the beach by dinner time. This is our 6th trip and we are headed for our first weeklong stay on St John, having stayed on St Thomas on past trips and visited St. John for day trips, we are really excited to stay on this beautiful island and explore hiking trails beaches and the people of STJ.

Our group is 5 adults – three are siblings- and two spouses. We are all over 45 and we are renting a home near Coral Bay. We have varied backgrounds, interests and professions (real estate broker, property manager, engineer, marketing director and lab technician) I will be bringing all of those to these posts.
I will be blogging daily to share experiences insights and interesting stories. I am hoping readers will find some sense of adventure in reading about ours and plan a week of their own!

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